The last word on new wine, the first word on Israeli wine culture

I promise, promise, promise that this my last post for 2007 on the Beaujolais Nouveau. However, I just saw an interesting article in Ha’aretz about the Israeli wine culture.

While winetastingguy noted that wine consumption in America is on the rise, he pointed out that he wasn’t sure what the numbers were in Israel. Well, according to the article, Israeli wine consumption jumped 20% in 2006. That’s a lot of wine!

The release of beaujolais nouveau is also getting a lot of notice in Israel. It’s in the stores already, hundreds of people came out to various venues to celebrate events. Golan Heights had a fun event – showcasing the fun nature of the release. The new releases are not to be taken seriously, but just a fun and joyful experience.

In Israel, where in 2006 average annual wine consumption soared by more than 20 percent from the year before, the ceremonial uncorking of the young wine is hailed on talk shows, noted on national news broadcasts, and toasted at the climax of midnight countdowns across the country.

We can thank the French for this:

Beaujolais parties were first “imported” to Israel by wine shops and the French Embassy in Israel.

“We wish to share a tradition which is really representative of French culture,” explains Brigitte Benhayoun, commercial attaché at the French Embassy in Israel. This year, the Beaujolais tradition was upheld to its highest French standards: French gourmet cheeses and Edith Piaf songs.

But, in Israel, the highlight wasn’t French wines but rather Israeli. However, I ask – is this an example of Israeli wines looking domestically but failing to look at the global potential for great Israeli wines? I’m tempted to say “yes.”

But the heart of Beaujolais’ celebrations in Israel this year didn?t involve French figures or even French wine. In dozens of Beaujolais’ parties around the country, the wine served was produced by one of the three local wineries: the “Junior” from Tishbi, the “B” of Benyamina and the “Gamay Nouveau” of Ramat Ha-Golan. These wineries started to produce their own “Beaujolais” wine around five years ago. All together, they produce an estimated 15,000 bottles. This is far more than the amount of Beaujolais Nouveau bottles imported for this event.

Local wines have a great advantage on French Beaujolais Nouveau: the price. As Kobi Shaked, the import director of Shaked Company, explains: “Due to French legal restrictions, we have only five days to fly the Beaujolais Nouveau into Israel. It has a decisive impact on the price”. As a result, the price of a bottle of French Beaujolais nouveau is NIS 70 against NIS 25 for a locally produced one.

Local producers understood the advantage they could gain from taking part in this highly regarded event. As Shashon Aharon, Benyamina’s vintner, says: “Our goal was to enter the niche of young wines to be part of an event that makes a lot of noise.” Beaujolais parties are a great opportunity for producers to mark their presence on the local wine market.

And, in conclusion (yes, I realize I just basically pasted the article, but it was a good one), the growth in Israeli wine culture is due precisely to the generation that is getting ignored abroad – young Gen X and the millenials (including moi!). I’m sure this is especially pronounced in Israel with high tech and the growth of international business and travel, particularly in a technology field and its supported industries that skews relatively young, as well as an increasingly pro-work, capitalist Israel:

“Wine culture is rapidly developing in Israel. People travel a lot. They want to eat and drink at home like they do abroad. The 25-35 generation is completely into it,” says Bodec.

“Figures show that annual consumption has risen from 6.5 liters per habitant to eight liters in 2006,” notes Brigitte Benhayoun.

Despite the prestige of French labels, Jessy Bodec encourages Israelis to drink more Israeli wines. “The quality of Israeli wine gets better every year. Take the Beaujolais for example, Israeli producers make it just as tasty and so I simply recommend to buy Israeli,” concludes Bodec.

It’s almost here – Countdown 2007

One of the most fun wine events is fast upon us – the release of the 2007 Beaujolais Nouveau. According to that all-knowing source Wikipedia:

Beaujolais nouveau is a red wine made from Gamay grapes produced in the Beaujolais region of France. It is the most popular vin de primeur, fermented for just a few weeks then officially released for sale on the third Thursday of November.

 

But it’s not just France that makes this wine. Other wine regions also have a wine made in the Beaujolais-style, including Israel. Well, this Thursday is the official release of the Israeli beaujolais Gamay wines, so the countdown is almost here.

 

Countdown? What am I talking about? Well, that’s the theme of the Golan Heights Winery’s latest release. See this Hebrew article for more, but the new bottle and design theme for the 2007 Golan Gamay will be “Countdown” with different collectable bottles having different countdowns. The Golan Gamay Nouveau 2007, the first red wine from the 2007 vintage, will begin to be released on 14 November at the Beaujolais Celebration “Chagigat HaBeaujolais ”

 

But, more seriously, below is Rogov’s notes for this fun wine:

Golan Heights Winery, Gamay Nouveau, 2007: Made, as are the wines of Beaujolais, entirely from Gamay grapes, half of which underwent carbonic maceration and half fermented by more traditional methods, this super-young wine offers up a generous dose of raspberry and grapey aromas and flavors. In color black cherries towards dark purple, light, round, super-fruity and fun. Although the winery advises serving the wine at 13-16 degrees Celsius, my own advice would be to serve it at 10 – 12 degrees and, if on a hot day and if you’re in a frivolous mood, with a few ice cubes tossed in. A true party wine. NIS 36. Score 85. (Tasted 7 Nov 2007)

There are other Israeli young wines, including the Benyamina BB, and Junior by Tishbi, and two versions of Carmel’s Young Selected. I will have more on those as it comes available.

Some are complaining about the environmental implications of this event, as the wines need to be flown instead of shipped to get to your glasses in time. According to one report, Lufthansa is transporting more than 1,000 tons of French Beaujolais this year. But, perhaps due to marketing reasons or perhaps environmental concerns, (I vote the former) the Israeli Golan Gamay will only be available in Israel. Another excuse to come here – enjoy the wines not yet available in Europe or North America! However, I believe the Tishbi, Carmel, and Binyamina may be available in limited quantities abroad.

Celebrations for this event are being held all over the world, including in Israel. If you’re here, stop by some of these release parties for the Beaujolais nouveau.

Below are the list of some of the best public events in Israel. Unfortunately, I have prior dinner plans when the Jerusalem release comes out, but if anyone comes, I expect a blog post and photos!

The Scottish Company, Rehov haTarucha 23, Tel Aviv (NIS 25)
Wine and More, Carlibach 25, Tel Aviv and Sokolov 61 in Hod HaSharon;
Nicola Hinawe, Rehov Yefet 176 Jaffa
Derekh HaYain at the Tel Aviv and Savion branches at. on the 14th and at the Nes Tziona and Moda’in branches at 20:00 on the 15th
Wine Hall, Shlomtzion 4, Jerusalem on the 15th from 19:00 (NIS 25)
Special Reserve, Sderot HaNasi 109, Haifa
Beit HaYain vey Ha Tabac, Sacharov 17, Rishon LeTzion

 

Other places hosting celebrations for the Golan Gamay Nouveau 2007 can be found on GHW’s website.

 

What do you think of this wine and would you drink an Israeli boujeleais?